(Continued from the previous page)Most lawn experts agree that fertilizers with N (Nitrogen), P
(Phosphorus), and K (Potassium) analysis ratio of 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 are
acceptable for use on any lawn. Examples on the fertilizer bag that
fits these ratios are: 12-4-8, 15-5-10, 21-7-14, 16-4-8, and 20-5-10.
The experts also agree that the fertilizer should have at least one-half
of its N (Nitrogen) in a slowly soluble/slow-release form, i.e. natural
organics, sulfur-coated urea, resin-coated urea, ureaformaldehyde, methylene
urea, or I.B.D.U. Lawns fertilized with one of these  slow-release forms tend to have better
color, thickness, and reduced leaf growth. Fertilizer application rates
should be as low as possible and still produce a high quality lawn.
 If the amount of nitrogen (N - the first number
of the analysis on the bag) is between 5 and 12, the
application rate should be 8 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. If
the number is between 13 and 18, the rate of application
should be 6 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. Anything over 19
should be applied at 4 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. This is a
good "rule of thumb", but always apply the
fertilizer at the recommended rate listed on the bag.
The best time to fertilize your lawn is when
it's actively growing and in need of nutrients. For
Southern lawns, this means beginning the program just
after spring green-up and stopping about 2 months before
the average frost date in the fall. For Northern lawns,
begin the program as the lawn begins to grow and green-up
in the spring and then reduce applications as the weather
gets hotter.
When the cool weather returns in the fall, the
lawn should again be fertilized. A late fall application,
after the first frost, has been shown to increase lawn
quality the following spring. Fertilizer application
dates and frequency are based primarily on which form of
nitrogen the fertilizer contains. Those that have at
least one-half of its nitrogen in slow-release form
should be adequate for 6 to 8 weeks. If the lawn still
has good color and is growing well at the end of this
period, then delay the next application a little longer.
Remember, if you are leaving the clippings on the lawn,
you are fertilizing the lawn almost on a continual basis
. . . possibly extending the time period between
commercial fertilizer applications. (Continued on the next page)
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Pest
Control Considerations
 A pest is
anything that: competes with desirable plants for food or
water; injures desirable plants; or, spreads disease to
desirable plants. Types of pests include: weeds, which
are any plants growing where they aren't wanted; insects
and insect-like organisms; and microbial organisms
(disease) such as, fungi bacteria, nematodes, and
viruses.
Accurate
identification is the first step in an effective pest
management program. Never attempt a pest control program
until you're sure what the pest is. Unfortunately, most
homeowners are not trained or adept at pest
identification. If not completely sure, most better lawn
and garden retailers have pictures and charts of the most
common lawn and landscape pests in your geographic area.
Your local
county extension office can also offer assistance, or
call a certified lawn care or landscape professional that
services your area. If you are certain in your
identification of the pest, make sure that you have used
the correct pesticide labeled for the problems, followed
the manufacturer's recommended rate of application, and
have applied it correctly.
Sometimes
a pesticide application fails to control a pest because
it was not applied at a proper time, the pest may not
have been in the area during the application, or it may
have been in a life cycle stage or locations where it was
not susceptible to the pesticide. |
