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(Continued from the previous page) 3. A Watering
Program That Works!
Lawns grow best when they are
watered heavily at infrequent intervals. On an average, the lawn needs
about 1 inch of water a week either from rain or irrigation during the
growing season. This 1 inch will normally soak the soil to a depth of 4 to
6 inches, which allows the water to reach deep into the root system. Soil
types vary in the speed at which water will soak in. If you know your
basic soil type, use the table on page 8 as a general guide to watering.
 You must
determine the rate of application of your sprinkler system to set up a
watering program. An easy way to do this is to set out a series of cans if
you have an underground  system
or a couple of cans if you use a single sprinkler. Run the system 30
minutes and measure the water in the cans. With a little simple math, you
can determine the length of time to apply 1 inch of water. Watch for
runoff during the watering period. It is very possible that your lawn will
not be able to soak up the water as fast as your sprinkler is putting it
on. If this occurs, shut it off and wait 30 minutes, and then turn it on
again. Also, remember that sloped areas have a greater tendency for
runoff.
The best
times to water your lawn are in the early morning or early evening when
there is generally less wind and heat. The least desirable times are in
the heat of the afternoon, when the water evaporates too quickly, and very
late in the evening, which can cause the lawn to stay wet all night. This
encourages disease development. Over-watering is worse than
under-watering. Most grasses can live through reasonably long periods of
drought. Water only when the soil is dry 4 to 6 inches below the surface.
Use a screwdriver or other probe to determine dryness. Also, if the grass
doesn't spring back up after walking on it, it's probably time to put
another inch of water on the lawn.
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Aeration Benefits run
Deep
 eration is one of
the most important maintenance practices we can employ to help the lawn
remain healthy and help ward off problems. It is estimated that over
two-thirds (2/3) of residential lawns are growing on compacted soils. Many
times, there is no evidence of insect or disease activity, but the lawn
seems to be off-color, thinning, and shows signs of stress in high
temperatures. In general, the lawn seems lethargic. Chances are good that
the lawn hasn't been aerated in the past few years . . . if ever.
Compaction is a physical process that slowly reduces the amount
of oxygen contained in the soil and nutrient movement to the roots . . .
the critical part of a healthy grass plant. Roots of the plant need
oxygen, and as a product of their growth process, give off carbon dioxide.
As compaction increases, less and less oxygen can enter the soil and less
carbon dioxide can escape. The net result is a gradually thinning lawn
until, ultimately, the soil can no longer support any turf growth.
Aerification will prevent or help a number of problems,
including compaction and thatch build-up. It opens passageways in the
soil, allowing better air, water, and nutrient movement. During drought
conditions, aeration helps water reach thirsty roots. When rain is heavy,
it allows air to penetrate and help dry up excess moisture. Each is a
stress condition for your grass.
Fall and
spring are the best times to aerate . . . and also for overseeding and
renovating with improved varieties of cool-season lawngrasses. Mid-spring
to early summer are best for warm-season grasses like bermuda or zoysia.
When the existing lawn is in fairly good condition and overseeding is
being used to thicken the lawn, one or two passes with a core aerator may
be the only soil preparation required. Weak existing grass, with a greater
need for seed, may require additional passes with the aerator to open the
soil properly.
For the best
overseeding results with core aeration, rake the cores to the point where
the holes are filled one-half to three-quarters with soil before applying
the seed blend or mixture. Next spread a starter-type fertilizer that is
higher in phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) than nitrogen (N). Then rake
the remaining cores back into the soil. With this procedure, the seed
should be covered enough to allow germination.
If you decide
to pickup the cores, spread a light topdressing to partially pre-fill the
aeration holes before seeding. Then lightly cover the seed and fertilizer
with additional topdressing.
Proper
watering is the major key to success. Like establishment of a new lawn,
renovated or overseeded lawns need to be kept moist, but not soaked, until
the new seeds begin to develop and grow a new root system. In 4 to 6
weeks, a normal watering program can be resumed.
With
more than 50% of the lawns in North America more than 10 years old, most
could benefit from aerification and the planting of new lawn seed
varieties to produce a healthier, denser lawn. |
